rub out lacquer finish

rub out lacquer finish

Please let me know if I am missing steps and if this is the simplest way to get good results! The wax will “warm up” the look of the finish, increase the sheen, and help protect the surface from scratches. The reactive finishes (varnish and polyurethane) and coalescing finishes (water based) are more difficult to rub out. When you do, you’ll probably notice that the finish isn’t perfect. It’s best to use the finest grit possible; in most cases, 600 grit will work well. After the rottenstone stage I just rub with a bare hand. I don't know what equipment you have but I have found the variable settings of the Festool RO 150 6 inch sander to be pretty darned good for rubbing out finishes. I only used lacquer because I'm giving the table to my sister in Atlanta, where it will live in a front hallway. Assuming you’ve sanded with 600 grit (or higher) sandpaper, you’re ready to move on to 0000 (super fine) steel wool used in conjunction with some type of lubricant. It is from these people that I have learned valuable lessons. For international returns, please click here. The same thing happened again (although not as bad this time, because I was much more careful in padding the two half-tops). The process is called “rubbing out”, and serves the purpose of getting rid of minor imperfections in a surface film finish, such as varnish or lacquer, (sometimes) leveling the finished surface, and establishing a consistent sheen. For those of us who have found ourselves immersed into the intricacies of finishing wood there should be felt among the cogniscenti a great pity. I don't think it is economically feasible to conduct a final rubbing out in the shop with anything but a catalyzed finish. A finish that isn’t fully cured won’t rub out well, and the risk of sanding through the finish is much greater. Next I am planning on … There are numerous advantages to a lacquer finish. HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish HVLP Sprayer, How to Make a Geometric Pattern Cutting Board. I have found that the simplicity and reliability of the various methods of applying shellac finishes consistently produce the best result. Literally by hand. I've encountered this with nitrocellulose lacquer when I failed to wait at least two weeks before rubbing it out. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. To finish it properly is another thing. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. I then waited a few more weeks for the finish to completely harden again, and started all over, this time replacing the rottenstone with a 3M automotive polishing compound called Finesse It II. While you’re sanding away, remember that it’s all to easy to accidentally sand through the finish near sharp corners; be extra-careful not to bear down too much. The clumps of dried finish that quickly collect on uncoated, un-lubricated sandpaper are called “corns” and will damage the surface of the finish. Unfortunately not. You’ll find a few resources for learning the more advanced techniques at the end of this post. Master wood finisher Jeff Jewitt prefers the stearate coated variety for this type of rubout. These methods include using simple remedies for the vast majority of my work ( a brilliant sheen can be obtained from off the shelf varnish) to the more elaborate methods of working with shellac. There's also the possibility of rubbing through - - I certainly don't want to go there! I feel your pain, Bob. I am tempted to use my random orbit sander with a polishing pad to complete this job, but I'm leery of switching horses in mid stream. Everything you are doing is pretty much on the money but you have encountered the ambiguous "cure time" or "dry time" of the finish. That means waiting several days for an evaporative finish like shellac or lacquer , and at least a week for reactive finishes like varnish . Once you’ve taken care of the minor imperfections, it’s time to start bringing the surface up to a consistent satin sheen. 1. Wipe away the rubbing slurry frequently to check your progress, and stop as soon as you have a consistent satin sheen. Does this heating process hasten the curing time? To register, send your email address, your desired username, and your desired Forum password to [email protected]. There have been times when I have reconciled myself to my inadequacies in this regard and turned a piece over to people who do nothing but finishing. Opinions vary on the best lubricant for steel wool, but a name that comes up over and over again is Behlen’s Wool Lube. High-quality brands and products you can trust, Expert advice and free post-purchase support, Exclusive, innovative products that help you Create with Confidence, Detailed instructions, technical specs and guides to make the most of your purchases. Let's face it, you can't do better than Finesse It. Learn Woodworking Tips & Tricks with Rockler. But some rubbed out finishes are easy, and don’t take a long time. Once you are satisfied with the look of the finish, and have completely removed the rubbing residue, apply a coat or two of a quality paste wax. Remember that steel wool can cut through a finish, too. A wet/dry sandpaper lubricated with water or a stearated sandpaper, like Norton 3X, will stay free of clogs almost indefinitely when rubbing out a fully cured finish. Alternatively, you can continue with finer grits of sandpaper and final rubbing with pumice and rotten stone to reach a high gloss surface (provided the finish you started with didn’t contain flattening agents, as anything labeled “satin” or “semi-gloss” does). I don't know absolutely, but I get a lot of "how'd you do that" 's from people. Finishes to Rub The best finishes to rub are the evaporative finishes, shellac and lacquer. That depends on the look you’re after. If you’re like most of us, the minute a newly finished project is dry enough to handle, you pick it up to proudly examine your accomplishment. By hand-rubbing your lacquer finish, you can take it one step further and give it a mirror-like shine. Almost always there will be a few dust nibs sticking up from the surface, and a couple of places where the brush or applicator marks didn’t level out perfectly. Lacquer is clear and durable and dries very quickly. Most of the time, you have to “finish the finish”. It is out of these experiences that I have learned to stick to what I know. For these items, please call the store where you purchased them or our customer service department at 1-800-376-7856 so we can assist you. Your order will come with a return form with convenient instructions, or you may send your returns directly to Returns Department, Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340. Rubbing out a finish is the last step in finishing and the object is to remove imperfections, even out and smooth the surface, and establish a consistent sheen to the finish. Items shipped directly from the manufacturer cannot be returned in store. But, regardless of the chosen finish, I must reconcile myself to the fact that a decent finish will inevitably require more time than is economically warranted. RUBBING OUT ARM R SEAL . If I make another one of these (and I intend to do just that), I will plan to rub out the finish in stages, starting with the secondary "top" as Ken suggests. The top coat was 10-12 sprayed-on layers of Hydrocote Resisthane gloss waterborne lacquer. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. After a LOT of rubbing, I achieved a brilliant, glossy finish on the upper surface of both half-circle tops. Bob, I agree with previous posts. Here is my plan to lacquer and rub out the finish. Here, the important things are to sand as little as possible, and to be very careful not to sand all the way through the finish - or even through the top coat of finish, if you’ve used a finish that doesn’t completely fuse from coat to coat, such as oil-based varnish or a waterborne finish. That means waiting several days for an evaporative finish like shellac or lacquer, and at least a week for reactive finishes like varnish. It gives him a better feel for how much finish he’s taking off and makes it easier to avoid sanding through the finish. Shellacs, while preferable for the high gloss, remain soft for months. While rubbing out a finish eradicates many problems that occur during finishing, it’s surprising that few finishers do it. Lacquers take a long time to really cure, which is why they are so problematic.

Hero Glamour Photo, Sherpa Jacket Pink, How Long To Cook Canned Black Beans, Creamy Chicken Nachos, Mattress Firm Box Spring, Pan Fried Peanut Butter And Jelly Sandwich, Polish Grocery Store Near Me, 2 Drawer File Cabinet, Scotiabank Falmouth Branch Code, 3x3 Locking Tuners,